Permanent waves , commonly called perm or " permanent ", involves the use of heat and/or chemicals to break and cross reform connecting the bonding of the hair structure. Hair washed and wrapped in a shape and waved lotions or 'reagents' applied. This solution reacts chemically to soften the inner structure of the hair by breaking down several cross links in and between the hair protein chains. Hair swells, stretches and softens, then forms.
In addition, this process is often used for chemical hair straightening, or relax (the process first developed by Renaud Whittington). This process utilizes the same chemical reaction as in permanent waves, but the hair is combed straight rather than wrapped around the shape.
Video Perm (hairstyle)
History
The first person who produced the practical thermal method was Marcel Grateau in 1872. He designed a pair of specially produced braces, in which one of his arms had a circular cross section and the other a concave one, so that was mounted inside the other when the clasps were closed. The brace is generally heated over a gas or alcohol fire and the correct temperature is achieved by testing the clamp in the paper; if the paper is a bit brown, that is about right. Swinging itself is safe if care is taken to keep pinching of the scalp. The procedure is to comb the hair toward the operator, move the comb gently with one hand to maintain the tension, while applying a brace to the hair in succession under the hair key toward the point. Each time the brace is applied, they are moved slightly toward the normal direction of the hair lock, resulting in continuous or two-dimensional waves. The skill of using the wrist can produce a slight variation of the waves. Thus, Marcel waved to produce two-dimensional waves, in a thermal way only and the change was produced by the flow of hair plastic, not by chemical means. Because of the high temperatures used, the process tends to decrease hair. Yet, despite its shortcomings, Marcel's waving forms have continued to this day, when quick results and low costs are important.
Because the demand for self-determination grows among women, the hair is shortened so it does not pass through the bottom of the neck. This is not only political cues but also practices, as women begin to take over men's jobs because of the huge labor shortages during the First World War (see Suffragette). At the same time, electricity, which has been introduced primarily for lighting and industrial use, began to be used for heating and applying electric motors in small and domestic businesses. Because the short hair is enhanced in appearance by waving even more than long hair, it is only a matter of time before a better waveform appears.
Nessler
An early alternative method for hair curling suitable for use in people was discovered in 1905 by German hairdresser Karl Nessler. She uses a mixture of cow urine and water. The first public demonstration occurred on October 8, 1905, but Nessler has been working on the idea since 1896. Previously, wigs had been arranged with caustic chemicals to form curls, but this recipe was too rough to use next to human skin. The method, called the spiral heat method, is only useful for long hair. The hair was wrapped around a spiral rod connected to a machine with an electric heater. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) is applied and hair is heated to 212Ã, Â ° F (100Ã, Â ° C) or more for long periods of time. This process uses about twelve rolls of brass weighing 2 pounds (0.9 kg) and takes six hours to complete. The hot roll is maintained so as not to touch the scalp by a complicated system to resist the load hanging from the chandelier above the head and mounted on the stand. Nessler conducts his first experiment on his wife, Katharina Laible. The first two attempts resulted in his hair being completely burned and some scalp burning, but the method was repaired and his permanent electric wave machine was used in London in 1909 on long hair at the time.
Nessler had moved to London in 1901, and during World War I, Britain imprisoned Nessler because he was German and forced him to surrender his assets. He fled to New York City in 1915, purchasing a steamer section under a pseudonym. In New York, he found that hundreds of copies of his machine were in use, but most were not functioning properly and unreliable. Nessler opened a store on East 49th Street, and soon had a salon in Chicago, Detroit, Palm Beach, Florida and Philadelphia. Nessler also developed a machine for home use that sold for fifteen dollars. However, the engine does not make much of an impression in Europe and the first attempt is not even mentioned in the professional press, perhaps because they are too long-winded, complicated and dangerous.
Eugene Suter and Isidoro Calvete
Eugene Suter is a Swiss immigrant who founded a fashionable ladies salon in West End London. He claimed to be from Paris, which at that time was the center of fashion and style. He became aware of the possibility of permanent electric shrinkage especially when short hair allows the design of smaller equipment. The system has two parts; one of which is an electric heater and the other is a winding system and holds hair on a form that is inserted into the heater. Sutter tried to design the heater, but to no avail.
Isidoro Calvete was a Spanish immigrant who founded a workshop for repair and manufacture of electrical equipment in the same area of ​​London in 1917. This equipment has just been used for hairdressing and medical professions. Sutter consulted him about heating and Calvete designed a practical model consisting of two rolls inserted into an aluminum tube. This ensures that when inserted over a roll of roots, the thicker hair closer to the roots becomes hotter than the thinner hairs on the edges. Sutter patented the design on its own behalf and over the next 12 years ordered all of its hairdressing equipment from Calvete, but marketed under its commercial name, Eugene Ltd, which became synonymous with a permanent waving around the world. At the same time, Calvete developed his own product which he created under the name Icall, Ltd. Simultaneous production of two competing paths is bound to produce conflict.
From the beginning, Eugene realized the importance of the United States market and made a major breakthrough, challenging Nessler who had started there. The former also sued the latter for infringing the patent he had taken under Calvete's design, and won his case. Nessler will retaliate several years later suing Eugene in the United Kingdom, over several curlers designed by Calvete that resemble that of Nessler.
Heater development
The first heater as described above is tubular, and inserted over the hair that has previously been attached to the shape or curling. To facilitate this, after the initial preparation of the hair, such as washing, cutting or taper, the hair is combed into up to about 22 parts or keys, a process known as part or squaring. Each key is then rolled onto a curler that is essentially a rod that stands erect from the head, starting from the bottom of the pengikal using the hair closest to the scalp; then this method is known as a winding root, and the hair is rolled onto the pengikal. Great ingenuity is done in designing pengikal to minimize the work of the winding. In the early models, heaters tend to flop to the head, but with better curlers, they tend to point out (see illustration).
A second curling type was discovered later, presumably in 1924 by a Czech hairdresser called Josef Mayer. In this method, the hair is fed through a small clamp which after the winding will hold both ends of the roller. The ends of the hair are held on the roller until it reaches the brace inserted into it. For obvious reasons, this is called a point-winding. Mayer attempted to claim a patent on this winding method, which was opposed in a Federal suit by the National Hairdressers 'and Cosmetologists' Association.
Calvete designed a new type of heater for this so-called croquignole heater mounted on a coil, somewhat like a bulldog clip. The trend was to replace some tubular heaters on the side of the head with the croquignole, to allow for a larger styling scope.
Unit development
Regardless of the portable model that becomes available later, multiple support systems are required for curlers. At first this was fixed to the ceiling, but this was soon replaced by a universally adopted machine. A vertical metal pipe holds a circular unit, called a "pendant lamp" from which the heater is suspended. The bottom of the pipe is mounted on the base with wheels that allow the device to be moved easily between clients or to one side of the salon. The chandelier takes some of the heating weight and keeps them neat; it also facilitates the electrical connection, and the cable to the heater also takes some of the weight of the curler.
Due to cost, the initial model has only a few tubular heaters, and the permanent braking process takes place in more than one stage. As the process becomes more popular and competitive, the entire head of hair can be processed at once, using up to 22 heaters, some of which may be croquignole.
Development of "reagents"
Although heat is required for crimp, it is recognized immediately that if improvements should be made to the Marcel method, other means are needed to avoid overheating and to speed up the curling process. The use of water alone is an obvious choice, especially since hair is already wet from washing, for no other reason than it prevents overheating, and that steam seems to improve the process (hence the term "steaming time"). It was not long before experiments were done on the use of additives, and it was soon apparent that alkaline additives improved yield.
So this profession begins to use so-called "reagents", probably made by own hairstylist or sold commercially by machine manufacturers. The two common ingredients are borax and ammonia, which are slightly alkaline (have a high pH) but are relatively harmless.
J. Bari-Woollss
Until about 1930, much of the progress was empirical, ie every hairdresser tended to use a method he found useful. At the time, although some academic work had been done on the subject of hair, Calvete felt that more research had to be done on hair chemistry, and involved a chemist with the name Bari-Woollss, who specialized in the subject. He conducts controlled experiments on known factors such as the effects of heat, water/vapor and alkalinity and experiments on variations of rolling processes, such as hair type, tension or stiffness of winding, flatness of rolls, overlap and pitch. His practical lectures on subjects proved very popular among hairdressers, and he wrote a book on the subject.
Certain basic factors that he shows are still relevant today. The winding point is almost two-dimensional, more like a spiral spring watch. The roots are three-dimensional like a spiral staircase, more precisely a helix. Thus point windings tend to produce more curls, but both produce wavy hairs when drawn slightly. The point of producing a thicker and heavier coil takes longer to penetrate the core of the winding. The heated root coils are longer and the thickness of the entanglement will depend on the overlap between the turns.
Bari-Woollss may play a role in introducing a new redox-reduction factor. In chemistry, this is the opposite of oxidation and can mean the removal of oxygen or, in this case, the addition of hydrogen, which by breaking the keratin bonds in the hair, allows waving to happen more easily. This results in the addition of sulfites, bisulfites or metabisulphites to the Icall reagent, sulfur dioxide, reducing agents, which evolve in heating. The only alternative to sulfite at the time was merkaptan that was not fun to use. However, alternatives were later discovered which led to the development of cold waves. Bari-Woollss left Icall around 1934 to take over the encyclopedic volume reduction on female hairstyling.
Developments after 1930
By 1930, the waving process was established and its importance measurable if we assumed that the majority of middle-class women, with a rough estimate, had their hair once a week and were permed perhaps once every three months as new hair replaced the waving hair. Meanwhile, the hairdressers attempt to improve the process and reduce the work involved; this means savings at the lower end of the market and more women whose hair is permed. It's also stimulated by photos of rich and famous people, especially movie stars, all of whose hair is curled up.
This resulted in many copies of the original equipment made by leading companies in some cases with their own innovations:
- NestlÃÆ'Â © . Nessler re-entered the UK market under this name, introduced a "Radione" system in which his hair was dried and put in a blank plastic tube sealed at both ends, but containing wetted paper. Also introduced a "oleum" system in which water is replaced by oil.
- MacDonald . The revolutionary system, as it does not use direct electric heating. Steam is produced in a separate kettle, or later in an individual small kettle, a vapor led by a tube for each "heater". Arrangements should be made to remove viscous water, but there is no risk of overheating or electric shock, but heat is a risk.
- Gallia from J. Metelski, credited with first wetting hair with reagents. which gives better results but makes it more difficult to traverse. It's said to be a very fast system.
- Superma from Sartory, is a machineless system that relies on chemical reactions of cotton contents, with water. Temperature control is somewhat more difficult but this method is popular in the United States probably because electricity is not used.
- Wella-Rapide is a German system that uses croquignole heaters exclusively. The hanging lights are not used and for safety work on reduced voltage.
- Frigidine is one of the few, apart from Icall, to use Bakelite timing and heating mechanisms.
- Vapeur Marcel is a French machine based on the same principle as MacDonald.
The way in which the reagents work when applied to the hair and is heated, not only because of the chemicals contained, but also the effects of water. Water not only plays a part in "steaming" the hair, but there is better heat control, because when there is water, the temperature barely passes through 100Ã, ° C. However, it vaporizes water, and it is found that by wrapping the roll with aluminum foil, the hair stays moist longer, and also keeps the rolls upright, facilitating the addition of heaters.
Further progress is the use of so-called "sachet", erroneously, because they are small absorbent pads containing certain chemicals, attached to foil or other waterproof materials, such as vegetable parchment. Sachet is placed in the water and then wrapped around the curler quickly. It's popular with hairdressers as a tool that saves manpower, and with manufacturers, since they are only used once and some 20 will be used for hair heads.
There are also equipment changes. Icall pioneered the use of plastics in hairdressing equipment, especially thermosetting plastics, (Bakelites) used not only because of their electrical properties in rolls of motor and heating, but on the outside of the heater. They are less affected by corrosion and tend not to burn the fingers of hair stylist. Icall also uses Bakelite for the outer casing of the hand-held hairdryer and also for the large layer of pedestal hair dryer.
It is conceivable that when electrical installations do not conform to current standards and at one time are not even grounded, the application of electric windings to wet hair leads to accidents sufficient to alarm women. Icall developed the so-called "wireless" system, where electricity leads to heating replaced by cables that take the weight off the heater, and heated heaters by plugging into the socket in the candlestick. Outwardly, the machine looked similar to the previous model, but there was never any electricity potential near the head.
In 1931, the Midwest Beauty Show in Chicago, Ralph L. Evans and Everett G. McDonough showed the system without heat for the first time. Their method of using bi-sulphide solution and often applied in the salon, left behind while the client returned home and moved the next day, leading him to be called overnight waves.
With the outbreak of World War II in 1939, all production of the equipment ceased in Europe and barely recovered afterwards, replaced either by home heating or cold braking methods.
Maps Perm (hairstyle)
Perms modern
Cold waves
In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold waves, the predecessor of the modern perm. It does not use a machine and there is no heat. Hair wrapped in stems and reduction lotions containing ammonium thioglycolic are applied. This chemical breaks the disulfide link between the polypeptide bonds in keratin; protein structure in hair. Disulphide bonds provide hair elasticity, and can be reformed with chemicals. Furthermore, the oxidation lotion - hydrogen peroxide - is applied to close back the disulphide bridge, and the hair is reformed into a rod shape. The whole process takes 6-8 hours at room temperature.
In the 1970s, acid perm was created. This amino acid-free acid, sometimes called a buffer wave, uses glyceryl monothioglycolate in the ammonia site. Perms acid, or buffered wavers, slower but more gentle on the hair. The heat is usually added by placing the client under the dryer, after covering the head wrapped in a plastic cap. Additional endothermic and thermal reactions cause the pH to rise from 6.9 to 7.2.
Perm today uses this method with sodium thioglycolic, not ammonium thioglycolic, at a pH of 8 to 9.5. Perming hair with sodium thioglycolate method takes only 15-30 minutes of exposure to sodium thioglycolic solution before the neutralizing solution is applied to restore the pH back to normal and reunite the hair.
Permanent relaxes straighten hair instead of wrapping it around. The same chemical method can be used for this, but the hair is not wrapped around the stem.
Other modern perms
Other types of modern perm including exothermic perms, self-timing and self-heating; and neutral, or low pH, thioglycolate free ejaculation.
Digital perms was introduced in the 21st century and is used primarily in modern Asian cultures. This process is patented and created by a Japanese company, Paimore Ltd.
Technical considerations
There are two parts to perm: physical action wrapping hair, and chemical phase. Both of these can affect the outcome. Important physical variables involved are what type of stalk is used, how the hair is wrapped and how the final paper is used. The two most common types of stems are straight and concave; each of which gives a different curl effect. The method of wrapping is spiral or croquinole, and various types and placement of final paper can be used in combination with the above. Generally, smaller stems will produce smaller and shorter curls and improve the appearance of shortening of the hair.
The chemical solution used in the curling process is determined by the client's hair type and the pH of the solution. The classical alkaline surface is used for stronger and rougher hair. They work at room temperature and typically contain ammonium thioglycolic in the pH range of 9-10. Acid perms is used on smoother or thinner hair. They require external heat applications and usually contain glycerol monothioglycolate in the pH range of 6.5-8.2.
Security considerations
Due to its harsh chemical properties, it is important that contact with the skin can be minimized. Modern chemicals are less irritating, but steps must be taken to reduce contact with anything other than hair.
A poorly performing permanent wave will result in disulfide bond damage through chemical reduction, as it fails to repair the newly formed bond. It produces hair that is no longer elastic and flexible, but fragile and fragile. At this point, even combing the hair will result in hair loss. The hair shaft will have a fracture where they come out of the scalp. Because the hair bulb has not been removed, the hair follicle is not damaged and the hair will grow back; However, temporary loss of hair may be sad.
Home perms
A number of brands of permanent home fixtures are available since the invention of the 'cold wave' of the 1940s, but the numbers are declining because permanent waves are not as popular as they were in the 1980s. The first popular permanent home is the TONI brand, produced in Forest Lake, Minnesota. The Toni Company uses a set of twins to advertise their products; one with a salon and one with a house perm. They introduced a number of types and brands over the next four decades (Silkwave, UnCurly, Tonette, Silver Curl, Prom, Scatter Perm, Lightwave, Epic Waves) and a curl curl-free formula. Another popular brand is LILT by the soap king Procter & amp; Gamble which includes Foam Perm in cans is called "Push Button" Lilt and 'Milk Wave' which uses fresh milk as part of lotion and perm the children. Other perm types include 'No-Lotion' perms that use 'final paper' which is specially treated to generate waves (PACE, SELF) and 'self-neutralizing' which does not require neutralization but must be 'regulated' by drying the hair on the perm bar after rinsing the solution wave. 'No-Mix' Liquid Neutralizers are introduced because many of the perm is 'air' neutralized or using a powder mixed with water or a combination of powder/liquid. Other brands include Richard Hudnut, Ogilvie, Revlon, and Nutri-Tonic. At the height of the 'Second Wave' popularity of the 1970s/1980s a number of new brands and types of perm were introduced including 'No-Ammonia' perms and 'Soft' perms (Rave) guaranteed 'No-Frizz' even on hair bleached or stained and also a "temporary" tapestry that lasts only a few weeks before being washed leaving hair in almost the same condition as before you were permed. Other types include a customized version that lets you adjust the curl level before you make it 'permanent' and 'place' perms that lets you just curl certain parts of your hair (bangs, crowns, tips) and leave your remaining hair untouched. Another brand that was a household name in England in the late 1960s and 1970s was Twink (home perm).
See also
- Perm Punch
- Shampoo and set
References
Note
Bibliography
External links
- Picture of Nessler's permanent curling machine
- Disulfide bond in hair
- Chemical properties of the permanent wave
- Hair Entered 2017
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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